Navigating an African market

Shopping in Lagos, one of Africa's largest coastal towns in Nigeria was an experience I used to dread doing, yet it was a necessary evil. At first glance, the markets almost always smell of food that the hot African sun has festered (a zillion flies included), or that the monsoon rains have turned into a murky well of unknown parasites mixed with mud. Then ther is the market culture -- a mix of busy shoppers, thieves, opportunists and impolite, boisterous traders and messengers bidding to carry your groceries for a fee.

But, in order to cook lovely African meals, I would have to plumage through the market to get those beloved ingredients I needed and also to see prime finds of the day.

Yes, it is a lot easier to send domestic help in Africa to do the market shopping and, yes, it is possible to really train this person to get choice ingredients. But the joy of each market visit lies in being able to personally experience bargaining, develop relationships and find the absolute best ingredients for your meals.

When I made a decision to move to Lagos after living in New York City for most of my life, I really thought I could handle the market solo. However, friends advised me to take a local person, perhaps house help or my driver to bargain the lowest price. This was very good advice for me, although it is also possible to do it without help.

The first few times I shopped, I took a local person along and managed to get through with buying my monthly or weekly provisions. But it was such a task! The filthiness of the market scene, the smell of rotten tomatoes and meat, the traders who can smell fresh blood and hike up prices immediately, and the possibility of just being mugged if not totally conscious of your surroundings.

How then did I get to love and crave going to the market?

Admittedly, my dear, dear mother-in-law showed me some elements to each market and from which I was able to do it on my own and become a real market woman.

First, regardless of whether you know a market or not, each market has its own structure. No two markets are alike. For that reason, it is very useful to walk through with a local partner (such as your house help, driver or someone who you know looks the part) the first time.

Second, it is good to make friends in the market. Walk around, look serious and don’t be swayed by people calling out their prices, luring you to become their "customer". Do however keep an open mind because several variations of the same dried fish, vegetable, etc. are always available. So if while you are comparing process between traders you hear a mention of a variation of a certain ingredient or see something you might be interested in, do ask, it just might lead to a valuable buy for you.

There is always going to be that one trader who may offend you by their brashness. Don't give in, nor should you show any emotion on your face. These traders are experts in reading others; their business depends on it, so just look neutral.

If you know a better deal is elsewhere, mention it to the trader. This is the start of a good bargain. The second step to bargaining is to cut any price by half. If the trader looks away and totally ignores you then you have gone too far. If the trader however begs you to reconsider a slightly lower price then you know you are close -- stick to your original bargain and go up slowly until you know that’s the lowest you can bid. There is always a cheaper price to be paid and sometimes it depends on how much time you have to bargain as well as how much money you have.

A grocery list always helps. The market is full of so many possibilities. For example, I always seem to find that person who, after my shopping session, happens to have a fantastic deal on limes, local black soap, or many other things. There are so many of these bargains in the market and your money can slip by if you are not frugal.

If you cannot speak the language, don't let this be a barrier. Africans are very open and your local escort should be able to fill in the gaps. A lot of the time, pointing and clicking and naming your price go a very long way.

I can not stress how helpful it is to make friends at the market. Traders want to be your friend because it means you will come back again to their spot for your goods. Don't ever get personal, but if you know you like your trader's price, mention it and he or she will give you a better bargain a second time around.

Know your ingredients. Every market has options. For example, tomatoes come in many varieties and prices. The more you buy the lower the price, but it is not to say that you can not get your deep discount for less. For example, a large basket may cost N5000. But a mini basket may cost N150. If you bargain it well, that small basket can actually cost the same price scale of the larger basket, i.e., N100. You just need to communicate well with your trader. On this note, sometimes the cheaper ingredients are also poorer in quality. Know the difference because there are really no real friends in the market place and if your trader can lie about his or her product, he or she will.

Keep an open mind to other ingredients. For example, my mother-in-law and I love deep-sea snails and used to buy them in bulk. However they are seasonal and some varieties are not always available. As experienced as my mother-in-law is, we were both surprised when we discovered that they are also sold dried. This could have been a viable option during the low season for this particular item.

Go often to many different markets and take your time. Some markets are more expensive than others and some only sell certain types of products. Some Lagos markets that I visit regularly and find to be friendly include the Abateur market (where cows are killed), Oyinkan, Obalende market and to some extent Yaba market.

I have gone solo, but I like to at least someone along. Also, I find that dressing in something comfortable makes it is easier to navigate. It also helps to go in plain local clothing, such as a simple Kaftan and slippers. Don't dress up and try not to be too flashy or wear anything that will call attention to you.

Once you develop a rapport with certain traders, they will do favors for you. For example, most have cell phones, and may ask for your number or you may want to give it to them. When they have certain ingredients, they will call you and even send someone over to drop it off. If you are uncomfortable with such closeness, you can have someone you know go to them and pick up items regularly, and still get the same bargaining benefits. But that relationship has to be cultivated.

Lastly, be brave. Once you get the hang of it, it is really enjoyable and you can find quality ingredients like egusi, ogbono, yams, stock fish, dried fish, dried pepper, gari, etc., at a better bargain than asking your help to do it.